Following military doctrine, the M-16/M-4 family of combat rifles are supposed to be zeroed on a 25 meter range. Most civilian AR rifles also come with directions in the owner’s manuals to zero their iron sights at 25 meters. Why do we do this? Well, because that is what our drill sergeants have been teaching us to do for the last 30+ years.
Without getting into a 20,000 word discussion that would lose half our viewers, I’ll try to keep this simple. Purpose of the “25 meter zero” is to match the “300 meter zero” on the weapon. Why 300? That distance was chosen as an optimal distance for combat shooting with an M-16. Max effective range for the Army is 460 meters. Marines train out past that.
So, to hit a 300 meter target, you have to elevate the front of the gun above the target to allow gravity to drag the bullet back down into the target at 300 meters. How high do we elevate the front? We elevate the front of the rifle enough so that the bullet actually crosses the line-of-sight at 25 meters. So, if you are hitting the bull’s eye at 300 meters, you will also be hitting the bull’s eye at 25 meters.
So, the military reverse engineered this, and if you zero at 25 meters, you should technically also be zeroed at 300 meters. Using this method saves the military a lot of time walking back and forth checking targets and only requires a 25 meter range as opposed to needing a 300 meter range. Did you know most Air Force bases only have a 25 meter range? Now think about a Forward Operating Base on a mountain in Afghanistan; do you think they have room inside the wire for a 300 meter range? Nope. So, it makes sense. There are dozens of other reasons for using this method of zeroing, but I don’t have time for them here.
With a 25/300m zero, you can just hold on target out to 300 meters, and then dial up the rear sight 4/5/6 to match the distance out to 600 meters. Works great, in theory, if you are shooting at the middle of a 40 inch tall plastic target. I say that because, at around 175 meters, the bullet is a foot over the point of aim. Again, fine for shooting at the center of a 40 inch tall target.
However, how about when you are shooting at a Skinny who is poking his head and AK-47 over a wall at 175 meters? Your target is now only 10 inches tall and your 300 meter zero has your bullet flying 12 inches high. You miss.
This is why many units are switching to a 50 meter zero, when they know they are going to be engaging targets within 250 meters. If you elevate the front of the gun to hit at 200 meters, you are not raising it as much as you did to hit at 300 meters. Therefore, it no longer crosses your line-of-sight at 25 meters, but further down at 50 meters. As a 25 meter zero matches the 300 meter; likewise, the 50 meter zero matches the 200 meter mark.
Since we are not elevating the front of the gun as much, we no longer shoot high 12 inches at 175 meters. As a matter of fact, the biggest reason to use a 50 meter zero is that your bullet will not rise more than 5 inches all the way out to 200 meters. It also won’t fall but 5 inches from 200 out to 220 meters. So, from 10 to 220 meters, you can just hold center of his head and you’ll hit the target. Many find this more useful than a 25 meter zero.
With Pros come Cons. The downside of a 50 meter zero, is that the rear elevation knob (calibrated for 3,4,5,6oo meters with a 25 meter zero) is no longer calibrated. It still works but understand that setting it on “400” will no longer hit a 400 meter target. You’ll have to use the “5” to hit a 400 meter target (roughly).
Still, as Phil explains in the video, there is still merit for choosing a 50 meter zero versus a 25 meter zero. So, educate yourself and then make the correct choice for your individual situation and mission. Remember, knowledge is still the best weapon. Strength & Honor, TR.
Help support Tactical Rifleman by purchasing one of our T-shirts, check them out at: https://ballisticink.com/collections/tactical-rifleman
For more go to http://www.tacticalrifleman.com/ and Follow me on Twitter-http://bit.ly/TACrman
source
Know the trajectory of the round at any given distance. Can some dumb that down for me please.
50 meters with open sights?
Not happening!!
I know this is an off the wall question but I think it’s a good one
When zeroing your rifle is the muzzle at 50 yards or the optic
The zeroing procedure is for 25m not yds. 25m/300m. The “z” setting is for the M16A2. The M4 foes not have a “Z “setting, it is set on 3. It slso utilizes a 14.5” barrel. Most of the misconceptions come from this.
exactly the video I wanted to see. laid it out perfectly thank you guys,
I literally think the 50 /200 is the absolute all around best zero for hunting, self defense , or even fire fight engagements. Yes the 100 yard will be the best for hunting. I would shoot at an animal past that with a round that small. But the 50/200 like the guy said. You're no more that a couple inches high out to 200+ yards . Statistically most engagements in war and even urban areas show you're 200 yards or less. Also the lethality of this round drops significantly past 200 yards for a human. Not saying you're not going to die , but data from engagements show that. I was in the Army. I did the 25 m zero. You're constantly putting too much guess for distances. Special Forces , Rangers they all do the 50/200. My opinion its the all around best option
the best method is first identify the size of the kill zone, then the max distance you want to hit the kill zone, then pick the flattest trajectory that hits the most kill zone targets out to your chosen distance, i myself perfer a no hold over trajectory for the simple reason that front sight can block view of where you need to hold, especially at long ranges but what really matters is what ever zero you choose its if you hit your kill zone wether you hold under or over knowing where to hold to hit your kill zone, shooting air rifles also for most of my life having a dozen different velocities, over 100 different pellets with different ogives and profiles and over 25 different grain weights, we air gunners know trajectory well because we have to, we have much more drop, lots of wind drift, we make more ballistic calculations for targets of many sizes, and other variables to deal with far more then center fire rifles wich gives us vast experience because we shoot alot being the cost is cheaper to do more tests, at the end of the day its all about hitting your kill zone out to your prefered distance despite your zero, if kill zone target gets hit every time with using more then one sight in then it doesnt matter, its all about making hits on kill zone never missing any out to your disired distance you choose, combat, plinking, competition and even extreme long range are all different from each other. in a imperfect world you can have flat shooting with out hold over nor long range shooting with out hold under, some where in a trajectory path you will have hold under and hold over depending on distance
can you explain trajactory?
my shooting range only go up to 25 yards so I'm stuck with a 25 yard zero. That sucks but I can't do anything about that.
sorry for the dumb question, but what I dont understand in these videos is that the bullet leaving the barrel is depicted to go up. But isnt a bullet going straight from the muzzle and then drops as is reaches further distances? Why would a bullet coming out of a barrel that is held in horizontal position go UP?
Thank you for explaining this, really helps.
Is the distance from muzzle, reticle, or shooters face
Why wouldn't a 100 meter zero be good for out to 300-400? If i was set at using a 100 meter zero, should I have it grouping higher or lower than point of aim? Dead on?
Appreciate you going over the differences between the ranges of zeros. No one’s explained it better; not even small arms experts in the Army. Thanks again!
Got everything figured out in yards, then these Canadians have to do it in meters. Thanks Canadians
Why are you not mentioning the weight of the bullet/projectile? Surely it makes a difference after 100 meters!
How to tell they are pros in shooting: the use of the metric system.
If I have to zero at an indoor range and can’t go prone, do I have to bring a chair or is the typical height/width of the metal tables at each port viable enough to allow kneeling/crouching or some other position while bracing the rifle against something?
I hate how the army conditioned me in the 25 meter zero because I got SO used to shooting with that zero. I would even hit out to 4/5/600 meters with that zero. BUT recently learning about the 50 meter zero, the concept of it just makes so much more sense to do. Im gonna have to try this and retrain and train on this concept and see how I like it
What target do you use at 50 meters?
that sign behind them says 50 yards. I'm pretty sure 50 meters = 54-ish yards. the shooter is shooting a ways ahead of the 50 yard sign, so… is that "50m" zero actually good or will there be problems that get compounded the farther back you shoot?
What is 50 meters in feet or yards?